Soba, thanks

In case you ever get Dumpling Burnout in Ashfield, it's good to know that there's an alternative to jiaozi and wontons on Liverpool Road. A new Japanese place has opened and I sure hope it has a longer survival rate than the previous sushi and udon eatery that sprung up (and just as quickly vanished).

Called L & J Japanese restaurant, it doesn't depart wildly from the suburban Japanese template, but I did enjoy the ice-chilled soba, ready for dipping into a shallot and wasabi-spiked broth. It's incredibly simple, with zero trickery, but that's what I like about it. Something that stripped-back still contains a little punch.

And if you're really struck by painful Dumpling Withdrawal, I suppose you could always ask for some gyoza.

L & J Japanese Restaurant, 222 Liverpool Road, Ashfield NSW (02) 9716 0021